Lakescaping
Getting Started
Site Design:
Map the affected area of your property, including property lines, buildings, utilities and existing vegetation.
Determine if your shoreline is experiencing erosion problems. Depending on severity of erosion, your restoration may require the use of bio-logs, brush-bundles or other erosion control measures and the advice of a erosion-control professional should be sought.
Determine how much of your shoreline you will need for lake access (i.e. dock, beach) and how much lawn you require for activities (i.e. play areas, fire ring, sitting areas).
Remember, the larger the buffer area the more effective it will be, aim for 75% of the shoreline and extending 25' inland.
Determine the moisture zones of the planting area (Shallow Aquatic, Wet Meadow, Upland-moist, Upland-dry) to help in selecting the right plant for the right place.
- The Shallow Aquatic zone is in water 14 inches deep or less up slightly above the water's edge.
- The Wet Meadow zone extends from slightly above the water's edge up to the Ordinary High Water mark (OHW). This zone is typically moist year-round because of proximity to or connection with the water table or the lake. Typical habitats would include sedge meadows, floodplain forests, stream banks, ditches, and other springy soils.
- The Upland-dry zone consists of soils that are dry and well drained. Typcial habitats would include dry prairie, dry woodland, and sandy, rocky or gravelly slopes.
Choose local, native species based on your site conditions (soil, sun, moisture and slope) and personal preference.
Try for a large diversity of plants and be sure to include some grass-like species which have extensive root systems and help hold soil together.
If you are considering doing any work within the lake itself (bio-logs, planting) you should first consult a professional about regulations and permits.
Site Preparation:
Remove unwanted vegetation, that would compete with the planting, through smothering, the use of herbicides, or a combination of these.
Make the shape of your planting interesting, curvalinear lines are much more pleasing than straight lines, and asymmetrical shapes lend a natural appearance to your buffer.
If ice ridges are present, leave them in place, they act as a natural barrier to runoff.
Use an erosion control blanket along the shoreline and below the OHW (Ordinary High Water mark) to help hold soils together while plants are being established. Anchor the erosion-control blanket to the ground with biodegradable stakes.
Cover the upland portion of the planting site (above the OHW) with 2-3" of shredded wood mulch, which is useful in retaining moisture for the young seedlings and discouraging weed seeds from germinating. Only shredded wood mulch, not wood chips, should be used where there will be water flowing through the planting - chips will float away, but the shredded mulch will bind together and stay in place.
Planting:
Seedlings should be planted 12-18" apart with water loving plants closer to the shoreline.
Consider height when placing plants, shorter plants can easily become hidden if placed in the center of the planting.
Don't plant in rows, randomize your planting to give it a natural look.
Aquatic plantings should be protected with a temporary wavebreaker to keep wave energy from pulling out the plants. A temporary wavebreaker can consist of bundled brush, a coconut-fiber log, plywood panels or other semi-rigid materials that are staked and anchored in shallow water to dissipate or deflect wave energy.
Maintenance:
Make sure your plantings receive at least one inch of water a week for the first two months. After that the plants should be well enough established to survive on their own, unless this period is followed by a drought.
Your planting will also require light weeding the first few years. To more easily determine friend from foe, you may want to invest in an ID guide or plant markers to place near plants to make this task easier.
